Maker Spotlight: Tsuji-san

Our friend and fellow Rishi, Ryo Iwamoto, a Urasenke Tea Master and Ambassador of Japanese Tea based in Tokyo and Shizuoka, had the opportunity to sit down with a 5th generation tea master, Tsuji-san, including the distinction of producing tea for the Emperor and the Imperial Family of Japan for his unrivaled tencha tea farming practices and matcha productions.

Date:

March 05, 2022

Author:

Rishi Tea

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Ryo Iwamoto and Mr. Kiyoharu Tsuji

Our friend and fellow Rishi, Ryo Iwamoto, a Urasenke Tea Master and Ambassador of Japanese Tea based in Tokyo and Shizuoka, had the opportunity to sit down with a 5th generation tea master, Tsuji-san. Among his many distinctions, Tsuji-san has produced tea for the Emperor and the Imperial Family of Japan, a testament to his unrivaled tencha farming practices and matcha production. His passion for traditional farming and artisan techniques is deeply inspiring.

Tsuji-san is currently working alongside his son, who will carry on the legacy as the 6th generation tea farmer. Their family farm, Seicha Tsujiki, is located in Uji Shirakawa, Kyoto, Japan. The farm formerly produced both gyokuro and tencha, but it was the 4th generation—Tsuji-san’s father—who shifted the focus exclusively to tencha, grown solely for matcha production.

Tsuji-san does not sell his matcha to many partners. Rishi is proud to be one of his main importers and one of only a handful of buyers outside of Japan. The terroir and unique soil where Tsuji-san cultivates his tencha—the shade-grown green tea used to make ceremonial matcha—have long been recognized as imperial tribute tea lands. This area holds a revered place in tea culture and the history of matcha.

Tsuji-san believes that Uji has a relative significance to tea as Bourgogne (Burgundy) does to winemaking. The tea gardens in this region likely date back 500 years, and Tsuji-san knows his ancestors have cultivated tea here for centuries. He hopes to pass on the techniques and knowledge that have shaped the region’s tea identity for over 800 years to future generations. Clearly, the ancestors understood the power of this land—and history has proven them right.

Tsuji-san truly exemplifies passion through his dedicated artisan methods. Many of his tea bushes are 2 meters (6.5 feet) high and still , all his gardens are traditionally hand picked. Soil management is extremely important, especially when considering growing shaded plants. Tsuji-san explains his commitment to maintaining his rich soil:

“The point is I continuously fertilize with organic fertilizers every day and each month. I cover all the tea gardens up with Honzu [Yoshizu and straw] for as long as possible and carefully manage to increase the rate of Umami and decrease the rate of polyphenol. “First Flush”, fresh tea leaves have deep and fruitful nutrients, with the maximum of umami and all other rich amino acids and tea contents accumulated inside. I carefully hand pick the tea one by one. This is an extreme way of producing the highest quality tea. Also, unlike most tea gardens, our picking is only one time per year. These special techniques are all for boosting the umami in tea, and so it is as its premium.”

Tsuji-san focuses on specific cultivars for his tencha including: Asahi, Samidori, Gokou, Ujihikari, Saemidori, and Yabukita. Asahi is typically 15-17% higher in amino acid richness score than any other matcha is Japan.

Explore Tsuji-san's Matcha

Every cultivar he produces is high quality, fetches a high price, and is sold at many times the average price for premium ceremonial matcha. Tea schools in Japan also indicate his tea for ceremonial use. He explains each with specific tasting notes, charted here:

Asahi: Highly aromatic Kaori (aroma). Richest umami score and smooth, lasting taste. Vibrant green color. The premium tea of Japan.
Samidori: Savory and rich matcha taste with high density. Dark green color.
Gokou: Cultivar original aroma and rich creamy and buttery taste. Deep dark green color.
Ujihikari: Gyokuro cultivar originated. Flavorful aroma and energetic color and vibrant energy.
Saemidori: Characteristic flavor and strong umami. Fresh and light green color.
Yabukita: Less umami and more bitter and strong.

Tsuji-san is not only a remarkable producer but also a tea taster and blender. He takes requests from buyers to blend matcha cultivars, but he will absolutely not blend matcha from other farmers, as he has very specific guidelines for producing his tencha for matcha. Tsuji-san also does not typically blend vintage years of tencha to create matcha, which is a common practice.

Each year the vintage is released around October.

The Asahi cultivar is a distinguished and highly sought after cultivar in Japan, with its velvety mouthfeel and rich umami. Tsuji-san provides this analogy, “If you compare tea with wine, it is Pinot Noir in Bourgogne.”

In Japan, it is important to note quality grading of matcha uses a richness rating, which is in reference to the percentage of amino acids found in the tea plants. Tsuji-san notes that his plants never fall less than 10% content of amino acids, though it can vary from year to year.

Additionally, the bushes that score these high levels of amino acids are typically less than 15 years old. When the bushes reach this age, Tsuji-san will cut the roots and plant new trees. The peak amino acid scores and umami quality comes from bushes around 10 years old, as Tsuji-san comments, “I personally think tea can be the best condition at the age of 10. I recognize how old they are and change the way to manage each tea.”

Thanks for sharing your insights with all of us about traditional Uji matcha.